Hunter's hare saddle

 Some dishes don’t flirt with autumn — they dive headlong into it. This hare saddle does exactly that: seared to a mahogany crust, then cloaked in a Marsala-shallot cream that’s supercharged with black trumpets. The secret isn’t just the mushrooms themselves, but the inky, aromatic soaking liquor that deepens the sauce.

Method (the short, ruthless way)

1. Rehydrate the trumpets.

Cover dried black trumpets with just-warm water for 20–30 minutes. Lift them out, squeeze gently, and strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or muslin to remove grit. Reserve both.

> Use plenty: at least two heaped cups once rehydrated (more than a mere handful).

2. Sear the hare.

Pat dry, season well, and sear the saddle in butter until deeply browned. Remove and keep warm.

3. Build the sauce.

In the same pan, soften a generous amount of diced shallots in butter. Deglaze with Marsala. Add veal stock plus the strained mushroom liquor, and a small spoon of mustard. Reduce until syrupy.

Don't forget to open and taste the St Julien.

4. Cream & coat.

Add cream and simmer until the sauce nappes the back of a spoon — glossy, perfumed, persuasive.

5. Return & enrich.

Slide the hare back in to finish gently to just-pink. Fold in the abundant black trumpets and baste for a minute or two so they glaze in the sauce.

6. Serve.

Rest briefly, slice, and spoon over that dark, velvety sauce.

What to serve alongside

Gratin dauphinois (the rightful heir to this sauce).

Roasted Brussels sprouts or chestnuts.

A dab of onion confit for sweet counterpoint.

Enjoy 😋

Cook’s Notes: Always strain the mushroom liquor; it’s flavour gold but often gritty. If the sauce ever tips too sweet from the Marsala, a few drops of vinegar will snap it back into focus.