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Sunday, 19 October 2025

The story of mayonnaise

 The Remarkable Journey of Mayonnaise — From Mahón to Tokyo to the Belgian Frituur

Homemade mayo

Few condiments have conquered the world as silently and universally as mayonnaise. Today it’s in burgers, sushi, tapas and Michelin-level sauces — yet its birth was an accident of war.


Born by Improvisation — Mahón, 1756

Musketeers

During the Siege of Mahón in Menorca, the French Duke of Richelieu’s chef needed a cream-based sauce — except cream was nowhere to be found. Forced to improvise, he whisked olive oil and egg yolk into a silky raw emulsion.

It was named mahonnaise after the port of Mahón — a fact later blurred when French cuisine attempted to rename it into mayonnaise and quietly “adopt” it as their own.


The Rise of an Emulsion Empire


In the 19th century, mayonnaise became a symbol of haute cuisine — a cold sauce driven by emulsion science rather than fire. It spread north, where olive oil was replaced with neutral seed oils, making it cheap and universal. In 1912, Richard Hellmann in New York began selling it commercially — the age of jarred mayo began.

Jarred mayonnaise

Belgium — The kingdom of Sauces


If France claimed mayonnaise, Belgium arguably elevated it to a national language. At a proper frituur, it is completely normal to find 20 to 30 mayonnaise derivatives ( same goes for Belgian home fridges ), adapted to every mood and personality.


Some icons include:


Andalouse — mayo + tomato + paprika, sweet and smoky

Sauce Riche / Cocktail — creamier, often with cognac or brandy notes

Tartare belge — mayo with fresh shallots, capers, parsley and crunch

Samouraï — mayo with chili or harissa — elegant Belgian fire

Brazil, Django, Américaine — pure local creativity, unapologetically Belgian

Samurai


Belgians don’t “use mayo.” They curate sauces the way others curate wine.


Then Japan Refined It — Kewpie


In 1925, Toichiro Nakashima returned from the U.S. with inspiration — but he wanted more refinement. He crafted Kewpie mayo using:


egg yolks only (velvet texture)


rice vinegar, not wine vinegar (softer acidity)


a hint of MSG for pure umami clarity

Kewpie

In Japan, Kewpie is drizzled on everything from sushi to okonomiyaki to pizza — and Western chefs now treat it like liquid gold.


Classic Homemade Mayonnaise (French Technique):

Ingredients:

2 fresh egg yolks

200 ml neutral oil (or olive oil for Mediterranean profile)

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice

Fine sea salt

Optional: white pepper



Method


1. Whisk egg yolks and mustard until smooth.

2. Add oil drop by drop, whisking vigorously.

3. When it begins to thicken, stream in the rest slowly.

4. Balance with vinegar or lemon juice. Taste. Smile.

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